A two-level wine bar, run in conjunction with fellow wine importer Mattia Dicati, of Vino Mito, and chef Enrico Tomelleri. Visit the popular wine bar Paski Vineria Popolar downstairs, and or the restaurant Paski Sopra, upstairs.

Paski Sopra offers a tight-knit dining room of small tables, oversized leather banquettes and bentwood chairs, with one brick wall emblazoned with a giant Last Supper mural from Turin-based artist Gianluca Cannizzo.

The food is seriously good, without being at all serious. The smallish menu covers the things you want to eat while avoiding the cliches and it’s all slightly fermented and funky, like the wines.

Think crostino spread with cured fresh pork sausage and cooked-down agrodolce cime di rapa, like ventricina from Abruzzo, or even Thai larb. It goes ridiculously well with a house negroni built on Vergano Americano and bitters from Mount Etna.

The soft leather wine list is a mix of cult labels and murky, lively, skin contacts and wild ferments. There could be more by the glass, but there’s enough range for those not into natural wines to have a good time as well.