At the centre of the restaurant is a 50-year-old bougainvillea, spreading its branches like an auntie, welcoming you into her home for a meal that’ll make you feel more full than a wedding banquet. Only this home is a stylised ovular dining room sitting under a giant glass roof in the flashy Wunderlich Lane precinct.

The owner, Jonathan Barthelmess (The Apollo, Cho Cho San), website and socials say it’s a taverna, a relaxed, affordable Greek dining established for the everyman. But while the restaurant looks anything but, the menu reflects Barthelmess’ taverna love, starting off with everything (Greek) from fried lamb brains to Sydney rock oysters with muscatel hot sauce, and ending with whole roasted fish to the typical melt-off-the-bone lamb.